Seasons of Scent

The first thing I used to visualize whenever somebody brought up seasonal colouring analysis is Michael Moore being draped with hideous orange fabric in Roger & Me. I always thought of it as a cheesy eighties gimmick employed only by Amway or Mary Kay salespeople at ladies luncheons. Also, it seemed like nobody actually knew how to do it: in Moore's documentary, Janet the professional "colour consultant" somehow finds out belatedly that she's actually a Spring. I've been told: a) I'm a Winter because I'm a brunette; b) I'm a Spring because I have greenish (hazel) eyes and freckles; and c) I'm a Summer because I look tanned. Every colour palette I'd ever seen for these seasons included colours that made me look like I'd eaten tainted clams. Several weeks ago, I decided to do some Internet research and find out my season.

Lo and behold, I am an obvious Autumn: yellow undertone, chestnut hair, hazel eyes. Like many other people, I had thought all Autumns were red-heads, and had therefore ignored the colour advice for fall complexions. When I read the suggestions for the right season, things suddenly made a lot more sense. My best tawny blush and sage eyeshadow? The eggplant-coloured dress I refuse to throw away despite the fact it's a size 4? My collection of brown and camel coats? My olive t-shirt that is the husband's favourite and the cayenne-coloured top he became suicidal over when I ruined it with bleach? These are all the spicy, earthy, woody tones recommended for autumns. And then - because they always do - my thoughts turned to fragrances. Mostly, I like... hmm, well... spicy, earthy, woody tones. I'm not suggesting that every perfume I love could be considered fall-appropriate - in fact, I'm jealous of some of my faves that seem suited to other seasons - or that I like every scent in this category. I'm certainly not saying that my skin chemistry cooperates with my colouring either - I'm just saying my nose is most often attracted to the gilded, rich, slightly melancholy scents of harvest-time. The following is a tongue-firmly-in-cheek exercise in finding your seasonal scents.

A note if you're confused by the skintones: I think most people are good at determining the intensity of their eye and hair colour (intense and darker or bright and paler), but have trouble telling whether they have a warm (yellow) or cool (blue) base tone to their skin. The best trick I have come across is to hold a substantial piece of gold or silver jewelry to your face. If the gold looks brighter and your blush is peachy or sandy, you're warm and a Spring or Autumn. If silver pieces (and clear diamonds) shine bright and they highlight the pink of your cheeks, you're cool and a Winter or Summer. If you can't tell which looks better, randomly guess. As my online searches have taught me, this is a very inexact science.

Winters - The easiest look to recognize, Winters usually have dark hair and dark or intensely coloured eyes. This group is the most dramatic and strikingly high contrast of the colourings , and therefore look best in black as well as all strong, solid primary colours and jewel tones such as deep purple. Most women of Asian, African or Arabic descent are Winters. Liz Taylor is the iconic ice queen; recent celebrity Winters include Sandra Oh, Selma Hayek, Halle Berry and Winona Ryder. For scents, Winters rock the eyelinered orientals: the big vanillas, chocolates and ambers, the animal and leather bases, the velvety cloves and clouds of smoke... basically anything that goes with a little black dress, pearls and a pout of red lipstick. Bvlgari Black, Caron Tabac Blond, Chanel Coco in EdP or parfum, Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque, i Profumo di Firenze Ambra del Nepal, L'Artisan Dzing! and Fendi Theorema would all fit the bill. Powders, black (Kenzo Flower Oriental), white (Chanel No. 22, Comme des Garçons White) and boudoiresque (Lorenzo Villoresi Teint de Neige, Balenciaga Rumba) would do too. Finally, Winters should seek out warmers (Caron Nuit de Noel, Donna Karan Chaos) and chillers (Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire, Comme des Garçons Incense Series Zagorsk, CB I Hate Perfume Winter 1972).

Springs - Springs look like they "bleed pure butterscotch" (like Bunny from Fred Exley's A Fan's Notes). Strawberry and honey blondes and brunettes with "peaches and cream" complexions and paler eyes are Springs. If you are that rare woman who carry off a coral gloss, but dark lipstick and true white or black clothing makes you look as if you are clawing your way out of the grave, then you are a Spring. A historical Spring is All-American pinup Rita Hayworth; current Spring celebs include Nicole Kidman, Gillian Anderson and Lindsay Lohan. Springs look best in bright, crisp colours like grass and emerald greens, true reds, coral and watermelon, clear blues and aqua, golden yellow and ivory. Their scents are clear, bright and transparent greens and cool or dewy florals: Dior Diorissimo, Gobin Daude Seve Exquise, Annick Goutal Eau de Ciel, Guerlain Apres L'Ondée, Diptyque Do Son, Hermes Hiris, L'Artisan Premier Figuier, Gucci Envy and Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert. Sometimes Springs should choose perfumes with earthy or musky basenotes that heighten the freshness of the heart: CB I Hate Perfume Black March, Guerlain Jicky, Serge Lutens Fleur de Citronnier and Ormonde Jayne Champaca.

Summers - Summers are the blond bombshells; most natural blondes, especially ash blondes, and cool-coloured, paler brunettes with blue, green, grey or sometimes amber eyes are Summers. Marilyn Monroe was a Summer; reigning Summers are Gwyneth Paltrow, Denise Richards and Sara Jessica Parker. Summers look best in soft, muted shades - pastels and icy or rosy shades as well as true white. Day scents for Summers include classic and fruity chypres and hesperidia. Think bracing summer drinks (Jean Patou Cocktail, Guerlain Sous le Vent, Etro Anice), sunshine scents (Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune, Serge Lutens Chergui, Parfums de Nicolai Balle de Match, New York and Eau D'Ete), bright, fruit-infused florals (Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus, Les Parfums de Rosine Ecume de Rose and J.A.R. Bolt of Lightning) and beaches (Annick Goutal Vetiver). Rochas Femme is a summer scent if you go light. Orange blossoms are made for this season. You can get away with more heft at night, so some slinkier white flowers are great.

Autumns - If you have chestnut, copper, golden brown or auburn hair, golden (amber, hazel or green) eyes and beige, golden or olive skin, you are an Autumn like me. Warm, rich colours for us: forest and olive greens, camel, oranges and rusts, browns and neutrals, winey shades and orangey reds. Sophia Loren is an Autumn, and so are Natalie Portman, Jessica Alba and Sigourney Weaver. Chanel Bois des Iles, Parfums de Nicolai Nicolai Pour Homme, Serge Lutens Chene, Guerlain Mitsouko, Les Parfums des Rosine Une Folie de Rose, Frapin 1270, Fendi Asja, Caron Alpona and Yatagan, CB I Hate Perfume Burning Leaves and Gathering Apples, Ginestet Le Boise and L'Artisan Tea for Two all seem like fall scents to me.

So, does your colouring match your fragrance preferences?