Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Les Parfums de Rosine Diabolo Rose

So... it has been over a month since I posted a review. What have I been doing? Looking for a full-time job as well as for child care for my daughter - and indulging in my own blue period.* Luckily, I have been drowning my sorrows in perfume (and in Starbucks Iced Black Tea Lemonade, one pump sweetener) so I should have plenty of material for the next weeks. I swear.

Let's start with Les Parfums de Rosine's Diabolo Rose (2007). I always try to keep up with the new releases from the resurrected house of Rosine, the home base of which is so often overshadowed by a little store a few doors down called the Salon du Palais Royal Shiseido. As explained by Marie-Hélène of The Scented Salamander, this scent is a rose-tinged tribute to the diabolo menthe, an extraordinarily popular drink I saw in every café when I visited France. A mixture of green peppermint syrup and carbonated lemonade (NOT 7-Up or bottled water, as all the American websites would have you believe), the diabolo menthe combines the pleasing childishness of sweet, gem-bright syrup with the refreshing counterpoint of mint and citrus, reminiscent of that adult cocktail favourite, the Mojito.** Diabolo Rose is a mixture of bergamot, peppermint, rose essence, lily of the valley, centafolia (rose) absolute, tomato leaves, peony, maté, sandalwood, amber and musk, and is composed by François Robert.

My skin magnifies acidic, citrus-like notes to a really astounding degree. A large cloud of bergamot usually accompanies me wherever I go, and I have difficulty with many rose-centered fragrances going quite sour on me. It is perhaps unsurprising, then, that the lemonade facet of Diabolo Rose is extremely prominent on me for the first half hour. While I don't get a lot of mint up front, there is a languid thickness to the the top and heart notes that suggests syrup; from the ingredients and inspiration, I was expecting this one to be a refresher, but on me Diabolo is heavier than either of my Rosine favourites, the sparkling Ecume de Rose and the warm but airy attic atmosphere of Poussiere de Rose. The sillage is not huge, but there is an almost boozy body to the core of the scent that didn't work in our spring-like weather. Later in the development, though, there is a touch of peppery tomato leaf followed by a sheer base of dry maté and musk. That final hour (out of three to four) is my favourite: like a chypre, the base of the scent juxtaposes refreshment with a skin-like intimacy. A gentle breath of the drydown managed to lift me above the car exhaust on my walk yesterday. Diabolo Rose will likely not be a purchase for me, but there is a sense of fun about it that makes me glad to have spent time with it.

Diabolo Rose is not yet at beautyhabit, which carries the rest of Les Parfums de Rosine. You can order from the line for 70 Euro (50 ml) or you can (shhhh!) buy a decant.

* I was also back in Ontario for a while for the wedding of my lifelong buddy, Dave, who is the friend who met me in Paris this February. For those of you who heard about my perfume piggy nose, you can check out a picture of me at said wedding here. I am accompanied by my wonderful, dashing brothers, Thom (left) and Jay (centre).
**Having gotten on the Mojito train early, after being introduced by a Cuban acquaintance, let me say how distressed I am by the abuses perpetrated on this noble drink since it became ubiquitous. A Mojito is not blended with crushed ice, and you should not attempt to cover up a shameful, miserly amount of mint with an injection of some random red, orange or purple fruit puree.


At 3:30 a.m., Anonymous Leopoldo said...

How lovely to see you and your bros!

At 7:12 a.m., Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

Love the photo!
Scared of Diabolo Rose. Mint, syrup...definitely a diabolic combo for me :-)

At 8:36 a.m., Blogger Erin said...

Leo: Thanks, I just posted it because I enjoyed seeing photos of others - like Marina! - on their blogs. As you can see, the nose is hereditary.

At 8:44 a.m., Blogger Erin said...

Marina: I'm growing out my hair and it's been a painful and *long* experience (I had it quite short.) So my bros look at that photo and say affectionately: "Look, your mullet!" And, as you may be able to tell, it was darn hot at the wedding, so we're not looking as cool and glam as you in your Bryant Park photo.

Yeah, I think you'd dig the sour side of Diabolo Rose - but otherwise it's pretty much the Anti-You scent

At 9:44 a.m., Anonymous AngelaS said...

So glad to see you back!

Diabolo Rose sounds really interesting, and it's going on my list as one to try.

I second your comment about Mojitos, too. If it's not a Mojito, it should be called something else so not to mislead people who are looking for a real Mojito. Colored syrup? So very wrong!

At 10:40 a.m., Blogger Erin said...

So glad to be back - and have you back! Yes, so true, I have been fooled into a sweet, coloured faux-Mojito several times. It's a cruel trick.

As for Diabolo Rose - it isn't what I was expecting from the description, somehow - it's bolder, kind of less young and flirty. I wish I could smell it on someone else, as I think it might be subtler than on me. Hope you get a chance to sample it, as I'd love to hear your impressions.

At 4:40 p.m., Blogger Dusan said...

Joining the chorus of all the people who missed you - great to see you back and about! Wow, your brothers look so dashing and you are just adorable with your sweet smile!
I'm afraid Diabolo Rose doesn't sound like my cuppa as rosewater is usually a no-no for me. OTOH I did like the lovely, salty Ecume de Rose, so who knows? Hope you've been successful in your hunt...
Hugs to you :)

At 10:24 p.m., Blogger Erin said...

Dusan: Thanks - my bros both are smooth fellas, and I'm so glad my parents fixed my huge hippo teeth when I was young.

Somehow I don't think you'd dig Diabolo Rose. It's very different from Ecume, which I think of as the rose perfume for people who have trouble with rose perfumes. It seems to me that you favour scents with a kind of bearing to them (for lack of a better term) and this just doesn't have that at all.

At 11:18 p.m., Anonymous Forget Flowers said...

It's miserable that the scent last not such a long time and after two to three hours i smell the scent only from near.
In my view Diabolo Rose is really feminine and so fizzy also a bit spicy, the advertisement poster shows perfect how the scent smells; it’s like roses in mint water.
This fragrance is perfect for all occasion and it smells deluxe/ natural and not artificial The Bottle is also gigantic and cute and the colors of the drawstring match to the fragrance. I can't wait to get a big bottle of it

At 7:14 a.m., Anonymous Cheap_Perfume said...

Hope you get a chance to sample it, as I'd love to hear your impressions.


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